Arati (Evening Prayers) - March 1

I finally got into Haridwar for Arati. Last time a group went I was at the beginning of my head congestion – and slept for most of 2 days. But last night another group went and I was able to go.

What an experience. The Arati in Haridwar honors the Ganga (Ganges) as one of Hinduism’s many incarnations of God. Other temples in Haridwar hold their own Arati (to honor their incarnations of God – Huanaman or Ganash, etc) but this is the big one. Haridwar is one of the sacred cities of Hinduism and followers believe that Vishnu set his foot down in the Ganges here in Haridwar. That is why so many people come to attend this nightly Arati.

We left the Ashram in one of the school busses and drove the six miles into Haridwar, parked and then walked a distance to the banks of the Ganges. On the way we stopped and bought “boats” of flowers. They are loose marigold blossoms and other flowers sitting on beds of shredded stems, leaves, etc all held together in a “ basket” of leaves. A wick is centered in the middle of each “boat.” The cost? 5 rupees (about 15 cents). We each bought one and then walked across the bridge over the Ganges to the area facing the bank where the priests would conduct the ceremony. We were so early that we got front row seats on the ghats (the stair steps that go down to the water). The crowd was gathering - including many sadhus in their orange garb with ashes on their face and in their air - and of course the beggars. Some people were bathing in the portion of the Ganges we faced.

I had to laugh when young boys offered 2 x 4 foot sheets of plastic for us to sit on so we wouldn’t get dirty. What was amusing was what was on the plastic sheets – the pictures of wrappers of American candy bars. Our group sat on Mounds Bars sheets. Others nearby included Reeses Pieces and Milky Ways. Ah, capitalism.

Of course, the problem arose that I can’t sit cross-legged because my knees won’t bend all the way. I didn’t realize before I left that we would need to sit cross-legged on pavement (and am glad because I might not have come if I had known) but told the group that I would stand behind them. Not so easy. There was a man who kept yelling, “sit down” to everyone. He finally came over and showed me a place I could sit IF I paid the man who owned the little platform (he sold chai) 10 rupees. That was fine with me so down I sat. I was joined by about 5 others. Soon a lovely young man, a Kiwi (New Zealander), was standing next to me and we chatted while waiting. He was traveling in India for 5 months – and was about half way through his trip. Afterwards the young women in the group told me that he was a hottie and I was fool not to invite him to join us for our restaurant dinner - they wanted to meet him. I told them to send me signals next time!

As the sun set the chanting and music began (it was over loud speakers). By the time Arati began there must have been several thousand people gathered on both banks. The ritual was fascinating. Three “pujaris” (priests) came down to the bank opposite us and lit 3 large brass lamps that each held many bowls of oil. When each was lit the combined flames shot up maybe 6 - 8 feet in the air. They chanted and waved the lamps – down near the water and then up to the sky – over and over. Men stood next to the pujaris pouring water over the pujaris’ hands - the lamps get so hot they would get burned otherwise. It was all rather amazing – the dusk turning to dark, the chanting, the flaming lamps. People lit the wicks on their boats of flowers and sent them down the Ganges. Of course I have pictures and will hopefully get them downloaded before the end of the trip!

The actual ceremony was over in about 30 minutes. We then crossed back over the Ganges and walked through the bazaar to the bus. The bazaar was doing great business from all the Arati visitors. Again I am always so amazed by the rickshaws and motorcycles that weave their way through the very narrow passageways between the stalls. The usual offering – brass goods, cloth, food, spices, etc. I didn’t get any photos of the huge piles of the colored powders that are used in India – so amazing - a tall red conical stack next to a purple one and so on.

We stopped at the house of the Director of the Ashram school – her home reminded me of Rome. Outisde – nothing - but when you opened the doorway you entered a courtyard with stucco walls rising up around each side. We worked our way through passageways that were kind of grimy – and suddenly you were on a balcony looking down on the Ganges. So beautiful. We made the stop because it was politically correct. She would be insulted to find out that an Ashram group walked by her door and did not stop to say hello.

Then back to the bus and on to a restaurant in a nice hotel. Dining room – long table, silverware, cloth napkins – wow, the real thing! After tax and a tip, our meals were each 140 rupees - $3.50. Travel is cheap in India. Fun dinner – there were about 14 of us at the table. We all had the great Indian non-alcoholic drink – lime soda. They bring a glass with about 1 inch of fresh squeezed lime juice sitting at the bottom and a bottle of soda water – you pour it over the lime and then add a little salt. So refreshing!

On the way back to the Ashram we passed a wedding about to start (this was 9:30 pm). The groom’s family was gathered around the groom who was sitting, elaborately dressed, on a horse. A band was playing – we cheered through the windows and they waved. Around the corner were the transvestites dressed in beautiful saris with elaborate make-up and hair-dos waiting to crash the wedding. They will demand money from the groom’s family – or else they won’t leave. Life was happening on the streets of Haridwar.

Back home to bed – tired but full of memories of the evening.