Hello, Delhi! - March 24

What an incredible difference 9 weeks makes. It was exactly 9 weeks ago yesterday that I arrived in Delhi and how very different everything looked today. Delhi is GREAT! Delhi is FUN! Delhi is BEAUTIFUL! Who knew? How could I have been so mistaken about this city? I realize that what horrified me about Delhi is what probably shocks every Western first-time visitor to India no matter where the first stop is – Delhi, Calcutta, Bangalore, Goa, Mombai – or even Haridwar, Rishikesh or Mussoorie. It is the sharp contrasts between life in American and life in India that is so shocking and unfamiliar – the appearance of the cities, the shops, the rubble everywhere, the overall tones of brown, gray and dull green, the beggars, the horns, the cars, the cows, the seeming chaos. It was the impact of India that got me - not Delhi. Delhi just happened to be my first stop. Today it was just another Indian city – like many I have already driven through - only New Delhi is bigger and greener (more parks and open spaces than in any city I have seen in India). It also helped that the sky was bright blue. Where was the pollution of 9 weeks ago? It may be back tomorrow but today was a stunner.

Who knew? Thank goodness I changed hotels because I might have just gone to the Imperial and hunkered down for 2 days, afraid to go out based on my first impressions. The Imperial is a destination hotel – you COULD spend 2 days enjoying the amenities. Instead I’m near the Imperial, in a lovely neighborhood, but I am part of the city.

Let’s back up a bit. The train was on time both arriving in Haridwar and delivering us to Delhi. I had no expectation of this (you know the mantra, give up all idea of control in India) so was delighted when it happened. The cab driver I hired (Betsy had used him when she was in Delhi 5 weeks ago) met us at the designated place – easy, easy, easy. Jaghir Singh is a Sikh (beautiful turban and beard) – probably in his late 50s. His English is good. When Betsy drove with him the taxi had a meter – not today (or at least I couldn’t see it). He agreed it would be 1000 rupees for the day ($25) but it would be $5 more if we wanted the air conditioner on! We agreed this was a small price to pay. “Crank her up,’ we said. Actually, the weather is very similar to Haridwar – about the same temperature and just a little humidity. It was pleasant, especially with the AC on when we got back into the car after each stop.

First we went to Sulocahana’s Blue Triangle YMCA – it is about 3 blocks from my Y (the Tourist House YMCA). We registered at different times, didn’t know we would travel together so ended up at different Ys. Both are booked so couldn’t change to the same building. Strong disinfectant smell in the ground floor of Sulochana's Y. Better than the mold of Mussoorie but am glad I am not living with it. The one tragedy of the day happened here. I went to the dining room and ordered a fresh lime soda (thank you very much, have to drink as many as I can while still here!) while Sulochana was checking in. They didn’t have it – but had lemon instead. It clearly stated fresh lemon SODA on the menu. “Okay,” I said, “make it lemon.” It arrived, I started sipping and found it rather insipid after the delight of a fresh lime soda. Sulochana showed up, ordered her own, looked at it and said, “Wow, the soda is really flat – no bubbles.” She asked the waiter, “Is this really soda? “No,” he said, “It’s water.” I put my glass down and asked lighlty (totally masking the fear of the answer). "Bottled or Delhi water?” “Delhi,” he said proudly. I wanted to cry. I have made it through 64 days without every drinking Indian water. I have been so CAREFUL. Betsy drank one glass in Haridwar and we suspect it is the cause of her continual stomach problems that have been going on for close to 4 weeks! She is under doctor’s care as we speak back home in Toronto. I just couldn’t believe it. I had only 48 hours left in India and I drank some water.

I promptly drank a lot of bottled water hoping to dilute it. Only time will tell but this is NOT how I wanted the trip to end. Wish my stomach well, all of you, please.

After the water fiasco, we took the cab to my Y and I registered. It is bigger, more updated, seems to have more amenities. Great room – very basic but that's all I need. I can’t get my computer cable to work in the bedroom so have set up my office on the bathroom sink. Dragged a chair up the 2 steps to the bathroom and am typing away – to my right is the toilet and shower. Ah, the full service office!

Then our tour of Delhi began. First, Mr. Singh took us to the Imperial Hotel. At my recommendation Betsy had had tea at the Imperial when she was here last week and raved so we wanted to do that PLUS we wanted to have pedicures - after 9 weeks at the Ashram our feet are in such sorry, sorry states. We hoped we could make reservations for both for tomorrow. Well, to our surprise, we could get immediate pedicures AND manicures (well, we had to wait 20 mins.) and no reservation was needed for tea. We looked at each other and said, ‘Let’s do it!”

What fun!!! Truly my nails were disgusting – dirty, chipped, cracked – just about the worst they have ever been AND here we are in a top hotel, as fancy as can be imagined. We just told the truth – we had been working hard for 9 weeks in an orphanage and were a mess. We are embarrassed about the condition of hands and feet but, we beg you, CLEAN US UP!

The hard work began. We were assigned two attendants each – one for our feet and one for our hands. Both were worked on simultaneously. We soaked, they scraped, they filed, they clipped, they sanded, they removed cuticles, they scraped and buffed some more. They worked hard. Pictures are included (I hope!). It all felt simply wonderful and we just laughed the whole time. They enjoyed taking the photos, in fact took several when they weren’t satisfied with the initial result. My pedicurist (a male) grew up in Bihar – the city near the school where I taught in Rajasthan. We were immediate compadres when he discovered that I thought his city was wonderful (while the other attendants groaned – he would now be insufferable about the superiority of Bihar over anything in this area). The end result (about 90 minutes later) was truly remarkable. Our nails were tidy, clean, beautiful and had polish. I went for a much darker color than usual – I was feeling very India-ish. I think they were as delighted with the results as we were.

And then, the small world incident happened. In walked 2 American girls to get manicures. They were maybe in 8th and 11th grade. We chatted a bit – they had just come from Haridwar and Rishikesh – first surprise. When they asked where we lived – California – they said they were from Georgia but were now living in London. Where did they go to school? The American School. I asked if they had either Cindy or Steve Wasley for teachers (the couple who house-swapped with me in 2005)? They were shocked – yes they did! Can you believe it? I had sent the Wasleys the blog address – have no idea if they have read it. I asked the girls to give them my love and tell them my trip was great and am on the way home. What an amazing coincidence.

Then we went to tea. Oh my goodness. Okay, Stephanie, Pattie and Jenna – let me compare it to our tea at Harrods in London. This was in an atrium filled with orchids and jasmine – the air was scented. We sat on wicker chairs at a table for two. Okay, India wins out on ambience. Harrods was oh-so-very- British and wonderful in its own way – but this was MARVELOUS! Harrods wins out on the list of tea possibilities (funny given that India is where the tea grows) but the India list was still impressive. Harrods scones were better – but the jams and clotted cream were wonderfully the same at both. Same tiered tray, same sandwiches (salmon, cucumber, egg and tuna) and wonderful pastries. The one difference? When you ate a scone, they came with more! Harrods didn’t to that. It was absolutely breathtakingly wonderful. In reality, so was Harrods, so I think we need to all reconvene here so we can do another test to decide which is better. The cost – India wins out – I think it was $17 for the two of us – much less than Harrods in 2005.

We felt like royalty – the ladies room was gorgeous, our nails glistened, and we were MORE than content. But the regal feeling waned a bit when the attendant followed me out saying (in a confused tone), “Madame I think you are leaving your shoes.” I laughed and pointed to my feet – I had put my flip-flops (from my purse) on after the pedicure – and put my espadrilles by my chair during tea. I forgot them when I left. He was cute about it, “I wasn't seeing how you could do this, now I understand” as he handed me my shoes. Such service!

We walked back to our cab and off we went for a tour of Delhi feeling refreshed and absolutely beautiful (well at least our hands and feet). We had our list and Mr. Singh had ideas about what we else we should see and the order – and his ideas were great. We visited a beautiful temple to Lakshmi – the goddess associated with wealth – and another amazing one to Hanuman (the monkey god related to courage). But the best, and why I have to come back to India – Humayan’s tomb. It was, supposedly, the model which the Taj Mahal improved– and I can see similarities. But, in all honesty, the actual tomb (in another building) left me breathless. I liked it better than the Taj. So, I am now on a quest to visit as much Mughal architecture as I can find. I only have one day left so will definitely have to come back in the future. I like this style better than any other architecture I have seen - it just spoke to me. The building is old – finished in the 1500s – and is not in the greatest shape – but its bones are magnificent, in my mind.

Then we went on a quest to find the perfect hat for my neighbor Robin. I bought one in Mussoorie - but it is completely unsatisfactory. I found a fabulous one today but, unfortunately, someone was wearing it - the valet at my Y! Mr. Singh says he should be able to find something like it – but we were unsuccessful today. I have tomorrow. Oh it is an amazing hat, Robin. Of course, how will I get it home? Its architecture is pretty interesting - I may have to wear it! If I can’t get it, Robin, I’ll get a photo – but that won’t be nearly as wonderful.

Back to the Y by 6 pm – exhausted but what a wonderful day. Who would have thought?