The ritual of shopping – March 8

Yesterday I went into town but with such a different attitude than when I went in 2 weeks ago and wanted to throw the computer down the stairs. This time I got in the cab and said to myself, “Submit to India, if ANYTHING turns out well on this trip, how delightful it will be.” Well, the trip was perfect. The cab driver ignored my request for the order of the errands – and his order was much better. I WAS able to download photos for the first hour of the 90 minutes I had set aside of internet use (before the server went down and could not be revised) and I found the list of things I wanted at Moti Bazaar - the same bazaar I went through after the Arati prayer ceremony last week.

Shopping is a more ritualized experience in India than in America. I wanted some cowbells and knew I should pay no more than 5 rupees (about 12 cents) each. There are many stalls (I hate to use the word shop because they are so unlike our stores – just openings into spaces about 10 feet by 15 feet deep and LOADED with products – but stall sounds wrong too. I’ll use shop, but do NOT think America. Moti Bazaar sells everything. I was looking for the shops that sell metal objects – usually brass and copper. At the first shop I started to stumble over how to say cowbell. I shouldn't have worried. I looked around and, sure enough, there was a cow nearby. I pointed to the cow, then indicated something around my neck and then made a gesture of ringing a bell. He understood. Shook his head and pointed to a shop across the way.

At the second shop the man spoke some English and understood Cow and Bell. He pulled out a lovely bell – fancier than I wanted – it was 25 rupees (60 cents). I shook my head and started to walk away when the friend with me said, “No, 5 rupees.” I thought he might think I meant we would only pay 5 rupees for his bell – but no, he understood. He said, “For 5 rupees I could sell you . . . “ and pulled out a bag from behind a sliding door under the bench where customers sit – and it was the right bell. I smiled and used my fingers to indicate I wanted 30 and my friend wanted 25. He was surprised (Oh those crazy Westerners) but then invited us into his shop. And so the ritual began.

We were invited to step up the 3 cement steps into his shop and sit on the bench that went along the right wall. We sat and he pulled out the bells. He also encouraged us to look at his other offerings. I ended up selecting a copper pitcher (5 dollars) and my friend (and her granddaughter) looked at a set of brass elephants and a set of brass and shell turtles. He then told us that he was short 6 bells but would go to his inventory space and get the extras. “Would we please mind his shop while he was gone?” “Of course,” we said and enjoyed looking around at all his products after he left. I knew he was probably going down the street and buying 6 more from another stall – wise business practice – don’t let a customer go elsewhere.

A few minutes later he returned with the bells. My friend had another request for something he didn’t have – and, once again, he disappeared leaving us in charge. He returned, but it was not what she wanted. We got that lovely Indian shrug in return that can mean, “yes,” “no,” “maybe,” “how sorry I am,” or “as God wishes.” By the way, I have tried to get the shrug down but cannot manage it. I look like an idiot - I can’t do the languid sway that the shrug entails. I'll keep practicing.

I tired several times to hand him the money for my bells and pitcher but he almost ignored me. I eventually (a little slow here) realized I was hurrying the process. This is a ritual, not a quick product-money exchange.

After 20 minutes we left with our bells and purchases and his business card and much bowing and smiling and thanking with hands placed in the prayer position. We did not get offered tea as I have in other transactions - but that was okay. Instead, I got to "mind the store." This is certainly a much more interesting process, so much more personal than what happens when I buy something at Long’s Drugstore. Perhaps Long’s would like a lesson in the Indian way . . . hmmm, probably not.