Well, I was joylessly irresponsible and walked out on my study hall duty! I was tired of it and do not believe that forcing 2 1/2 hours of study time on 2nd and 3rd graders after a long day of school is appropriate. And it wasn’t just monitoring – I was supposedly guiding their study time. I had to semi-teach. So, what does one do when one wants to avoid something? Heavens, don’t be direct – well, actually, I wouldn’t get anywhere if I did – this is the Indian way and I recognize that it is appropriate from their viewpoint. So, instead, when Sulochana (the woman I stood behind in line for the departure flight in San Francisco) stopped by my room and invited me, on the spur of the moment, to go with her to Mussoorie for 4 days, I had my bag packed before you could say “Donna, don’t you dare be irresponsible and leave those children without your guidance.”
I really wanted to go to Mussoorie – and for more than just getting out of study hall duty:
#1 It’s a Hill Station. All of you who have read British novels that take place during the Raj era know that Hill Stations were where British women and children went when it got too darn hot on the plains. Their husbands joined them for a week or two but the women/children stayed for 1 or 2 months. Just like my summer in London, when I felt like I was visiting and experiencing everything I had ever read in English novels, I wanted to experience something similar from the Indian novels I have read.
#2 I am a Geography teacher –I wanted to see the Himalayas. Haridwar is in the foothills – but the actual mountains are over 100 miles away – and the constant haze means you never see the peaks from here.
#3 I wanted to see another part of India. Even though I firmly hold with my belief that I am here to work with the children at the Ashram - NOT tour India – when will I be back? I should see a little more than what I have already experienced.
So, with all these justifications in mind, I happily joined Sulochana in the 2 1/2 hour cab trip up to the mountains. Usual trip through the countryside – I don’t even blink now when I see all the cows, water buffalos, pigs, vikkrams (3 wheeled jitneys), carts, etc. on the road. Even the driving has become oh-so-normal. I rarely blanch, shut my eyes in terror of imminent disaster, or stomp on imaginary brakes. But when we started up into the mountains I was suddenly in a different India. I felt like I was on the way to Tahoe – steep windy roads, pine trees, fresh mountain air. I couldn’t believe it. I have been in dry desert India (Rajasthan), major urban India (Delhi, Agra), sacred India (Haridwar), and small village India (Shyampur). Now I was entering Mountain India.
I really enjoyed Mussoorie and will write a separate posting about it. But within an hour of my arrival, my main goal shifted to seeing the Himalayas. I could sense how very close they were. Here is how my quest unfolded:
Attempt #1 (Tuesday – March 11) – we unpacked and then walked to a cab station about a half mile away (cars aren’t allowed in the main part of Mussoorie). We were driven to an area above Mussoorie where one could spot the Himalayas if conditions were right. Nope –haze and cloud cover hid the peaks. We could see a range of foothills beyond Mussoorie (Haridwar foothills are maybe 3000 feet high – these are at 10,000 feet) but not the ice covered Himalayas beyond them.
Attempt #2 (Wednesday, March 12 – Happy Birthday, Barbara Cole – I kept thinking of you today and remembering your experiences in Pakistan) We took a 5 hour round trip cab ride to Tehri hoping to catch a better view – but, nope, they were still hidden by cloud cover. MAJOR disappointment. Separate posting about this butt-bouncing experience.
Attempt #3 (Thursday, March 13 – Happy Birthday, Gary) – Sulochana and I did a 2 mile hike around the tops of 2 rises in the mountain above Mussoorie – half the walk faced the Himalayas. Nope, still covered. I wanted to cry. When will I get another chance given that we were leaving early tomorrow morning?
Attempt #4 – Last chance. (Friday morning, March 14). At the last minute, Sulochana decided to stay a few more days in Mussoorie. I was tempted but felt I needed to get back so arranged for a taxi to pick me up at 7 am. I woke up at 5, walked out onto the hotel terrace and couldn’t believe how the lights of Durahdun (the city at the bottom of the mountains below Mussoorie) shone clearly in the night air. There had been some rain the night before – would it possibly make the Himalayas visible? When the cab arrived, I asked the cabbie to take us up to the area above Mussoorie (Sulochana was awake and wanted to go on this one part of the cab drive). Off we went for my final attempt. We returned to the area where we had walked the day before. At first – no peaks - but just as we were ready to turn back – an area of clouds opened up and there they were. We only saw about 6 peaks – but 6 were enough for me. Majestic, completely snow-covered, white and jagged – glorious against the deep blue beautiful Indian morning sky. I jumped up and down, cheered, and was filled with joy. I can’t tell you how many hundreds of times I have drawn inverted Vs on maps of Asia to show students where the Himalayas are. Finally, I got a peek of them. The cab driver, who grew up in this area above Mussoorie, was proud. He was able to show us a little of his world.
I got back in the cab with the biggest smile pasted on my face. We dropped Sulochana off and then headed back to the Ashram. I left content. I had stalked the Himalayas – and found a bit of them.
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